Tag Archives: problem

DSF Build Progress Nine

First to forth test prints

First to forth test prints

I have put the E3D hotend together (really easy to do if you follow their instructions) and installed it on the printer. Since then I started to do some test prints. I started with a 20x20x4mm piece. The extruder worked brilliantly however the printer had an issue, the Y axis kept offsetting (see first print above – ignore the waviness, I was impatient and pulled it off the bed while it was still hot). I turned up the power of the Y Axis stepper driver (second print). Same issue, again ignore the blob that was my fault. The Y Axis is quite heavy and I thought that the stepper was still missing steps. The stepper for the extruder has a slightly higher torque so I wanted to swap it for the Y Axis motor.

I removed the extruder motor and then started on the Y Axis. As I removed the motor I noticed that the pulley came off too easily. Oops I forgot to put the screw to clamp it to the motors shaft! So what I think was happening was the motor turned but didn’t have the grip on the pulley to move the mass of the bed. I finished the pulley with the nut and bolt and reattached the two motors. Voilà, it worked correctly as shown in the third and forth prints above.

X Axis pulley slip visible on the left print

X Axis pulley slip visible on the left print

While I was writing this I was printing out a 40mm dome. It finished printing and a similar thing was happening to the X Axis. It isn’t visible on the above prints as they didn’t go high enough for it to manifest. A new pulley was printed on my Huxley as the old one wouldn’t take the captured nut correctly. As you can see above there was some significant slippage although not as severe as the Y Axis had.

PID Tuning

PID Tuning

The last thing, which should have been the first, I wanted to do was to do a bit of PID tuning for the hotend. Using the auto PID command M303 in Marling I was able to set the PID to: P 26.84, I 2.48, D 72.57 should anyone be interested in using them as a base for their E3D hotend.

Glowy

Glowy

Just in case anyone is wondering the domes were made with Faberdashery’s Aurora UV colour changing filament.

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DSF Build Progress Seven

image

I have been surprised that the heated bed proved to be much more interesting then it would initially seemed. First I had to decide the method of heating – PCB or nichrome wire. At work we have a RepRapPro Mendel which uses a PCB heater. It’s fine but takes ages (up to 7 minutes) to reach temperature. My eMaker Huxley uses nichrome and take moments in comparison (2-3 minutes). Now obviously I have to account for the differing bed size, Mendel at 200mm square and the Huxley at 140mm. That’s a 35% difference in size which isn’t reflected in the times so there is more going on. My unscientific opinion is that I have much less nichrome wire length where the PCB has a long track to give its resistance. Bear in mind I was always taught that heating on PCBs was a bad thing! Due to this the nichrome is able to heat to a higher temperature per mm of wire than the PCB thus able to heat much more rapidly. So that is my long winded way of saying I went for nichrome for the DSF.

By no means is nichrome without its problems. It generally comes with no insulation, not many plastics can withstand the 1000’s of Celsius nicrhome can reach, so shorting on the bed is a consideration. I believe you can get it in a glassfiber but I have yet to find that in the UK. Connecting to it is another issue. You really shouldn’t solder to it, at least not with normal tin/lead solder (it would probably be hot enough to melt it).

So each problem in turn. Insulation has been provided by kapton tape. It can withstand the temperatures the wire should reach and still insulate it from the aluminium bed. To help guide the wire I designed the heat shield with a channel that allows the wire to run in a fixed pattern around the bed. This ensures that there should be reasonable heat coverage over the bed, you are never more than 25mm from it. I then covered the bed in a double layer of kapton tape where the wire will run. That completed the wire was then routed and taped down with kapton again. The connection between the 15A supply cable and the nichrome wire is taken care of with a couple of ferrules. These allow for a solid connection without solder. The supply cable was then routed through the heat shield and a cable tied used to provide strain relief.

The bed thermistor was attached and routed as well and the whole assembly wired up to the Megatronics board. I am always cautious when turning on a greater for the first time. Initially I set the temperature to get to 35C. I monitored the rise in both Repetier-Server and using an infrared thermometer. This is where I discovered something disconcerting.

The bed rose in temperature and settled at the set temperature in Repetier-Server. The infrared thermometer told a different story. It showed the temperature rocket to about 44C before settling down to 40C, 5C more than was set and what Repetier-Server was reporting. The same is true for most temperatures, the thermometer shows the temperature shoot way above the target, sometimes by 10-12C and then settle at about 5-6C above what the electronics see. I have asked for help on the RepRap forums so will see if anyone else has an idea. My current thought is that it is the temperature tables in Marlin, if so then I will need to figure out how I change it.

A safety feature on most beds is having them mounted on springs so that if there is a problem, say with a print curling, then the bed can move out of the way of the hotend. That leads to a question, how much ‘spring’ do I need? What does the spring need to support: the heat shield, aluminium bed, glass and what ever is being printed. Without the print my bed weighs in at a good 780g, adding a theoretical print of about 200g that means I need to support around 1Kg. I found a site, Lee Spring, which supplies all manor of springs. The factors to take into consideration are: the weight (1Kg), size of bolt holding the base (M5), distance to travel. On Lee Spring the ‘springiness’ of a spring is measured in newtons per millimetre. Thus if you wanted a spring of 1N/mm to move by 2mm you would have to apply 2N of force. 1N is equivalent of  about 102g. Something else to consider is that my design has 2 springs on one side and one on the other. The weight is split half way per side so the double spring side has about 500g split between the two springs, whereas the single spring has to take the whole 500 itself. I chose the LCM080DG 02 M as it fires the size I needed and has a compression of 1.5N/mm. As the springs will be compressed about 3mm anyway there is enough resistance to hold the rest of the bed up.

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Simple Cooling Fan for RepRapPro Mendel

Simple but very effective

At the school I work at we have a RRP Mendel. I was trying to print some students work but it kept failing. Eventually I discovered that the problem was down to curling from some overhangs on one piece. As the part had 45degree angle and only 5mm thick, the printer was catching on the curled ands and eventually cause the printer to miss some steps. I needed a way of cooling the plastic faster.

I then found an 80mm computer case fan that was being recycled. As I needed to get the part printed I simply cable-tied the fan onto the smooth rods of the X-Axis. Amazingly these are about 80mm apart and the fan fitted beautifully behind the X-Axis endstop. Now I was able to get the print to finish and have a great look as well.

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Store Your Filament – Well

Okay – so I may have forgotten that I had some filament (Bling Bling Gold from Faberdashery) that had fallen down and I had forgotten about it. On doing a clear-out I discovered said filament and thought I would use it in my latest adventure – stands to display my Game Boy cartridges. Unfortunately that wasn’t to be.

Conditioner

Anyone will tell you to store your filament correctly – that is in a bag and maybe with some desiccant. Don’t store it randomly behind the unit your printer is on! Not entierly sure what has happened but when I went to insert the filament into the printer a section snapped off. Strange I thought – carry on and try again. It done it again. Hmm. I then looked at the filament and saw this.

If you look at the top of the filament you can see that there are really small ‘cracks’ in it. This is the point where is breaks. I am assuming that the filament has reacted with the air or moisture to have resulted in this defect. Although it looks more like the filament has dried out.

My Fault not Yours

I must say that this is the only time I have ever seen this from filament from Faberdshery. This is also some of the oldest filament I have as well. Had I stored it in a bag would it have faired better – I can’t say. However storing it outside of a bag will not help keep it in top condition either.

Let this be a lesson for everyone at my expense . Care for your filament and you will get some long life out of it. This is also a positive for Faberdashery’s ethos of only buying what you need when you need it, don’t try and store/horde it. I cannot blame anyone but myself for this – I should have put it away when I had last used it – now I have to bin it. Well – put it into recycling ready for my Filabot! (When I get one that is!)

Links

Faberdashery

Filabot

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Hot Under the Collar

The most problematic part of my 3D Printing experience has been the hot end assembly. I have had it jam, the fan stop working and the Bowden tube pop out of more than one occasion. Today I am trying to find the fault in the hot end again. I have been trying to print some items for a company (my first commission!) and there is one part of it that starts to print and about half way through the hot end appears to jam and then the Bowden tube pops off. At first I thought it was the connector – I have had problems with that before. So I replaced it. Started the print up again and the same thing happens.

Could it be that something is blocking the nozzle – I ask myself. To find out if have removed the nozzle, rigged up a simpleimage aluminium foil holder and baked it at 210C for 20 minutes. Unfortunately that didn’t work. I resorted to a combination of heating with the gas stove, using a 1.7mm drill bit to push the remaining PLA through and then a 0.5mm bit to clean out the nozzle. I also used the larger drill bit to clean out the connector as well.

Another thought occurred to me, what if it wasn’t the nozzle at all, what if it was the print it had been doing? I had been using Slic3r to produce the gcode, something I noticed was the large number of retracts it was doing as it infilled. image In this image you can see the infill but the greenish colour is where it moves without extruding – you can see there are loads of them – and every time it doesn’t extrude while moving is another retraction. So I switched back to Skeinforge. image It had done a better infill without the retraction and also I didn’t have the jamming either. I have reported my findings into the Github for Slic3r, I hope it is something that can be fixed.

Update
And no sooner had I reported the problem then it had been sorted! Just have to wait for the next pre-compiled build to be released.

Links
Slic3r
Skeinforge

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